Monthly Archives: June 2014

Upcoming Photo Shoots: Remote Climbs

THURSDAY, June 26, 2014 – We are arranging photo shoots of the routes listed below for Classic Adirondack Climbs. We welcome your participation if you are interested in climbing for our cameras on any of these routes. Contact us for more information.

Roger's Rock on a perfect summer's day

Roger’s Rock on a perfect summer’s day

ROGER’S ROCK – We would like to photograph two parties (two climbers in each party) climbing simultaneously on Parallel Dreams, 5.8 G (5.4 X) and Bill to Still Bill, 5.8 PG.

DIX NORTHERN CIRQUE SLIDES – We would like to photograph two or three people climbing unroped on these 3rd/4th Class slides in one long day.

Overnight Required for WALLFACE (2-3 days) – We would like to photograph while climbing nearby a leader and second on The Diagonal, 5.8 G. We would also like to shoot climbers on the first pitch of No Man’s A Pilot, 5.9 G at the same time. If there was a party willing to climb the Case Route, 5.5 G the day before or after that would be even better. We’d like to get all three routes in one trip if possible and we can be flexible to that end. Falcon closures may impact scheduling.

Upcoming Photo Shoots: Roadside Climbs

WEDNESDAY, June 25, 2014 – We have photos for the following roadside routes in our collection but, for one reason or another, they are not quite what we want. We are committed to reshooting these routes and welcome your participation if you are interested in climbing for our cameras. Just let us know which climbs are of interest and we’ll take it from there.

Right Notion

R.L. Stolz leans out to get the best angle on Right Notion

WASHBOWL CLIFF – We would like to shoot a leader and second climbing the Weissner Route, 5.6 G. This will be a fully rigged shoot taking about half a day. We would also like to shoot a leader and second climbing Butterflies Are Free to Partition, 5.9- G. This will also be a fully rigged shoot taking about half a day. Falcon closures may impact scheduling.

BEER WALLS – We would like to shoot a leader and second climbing Pegasus, 5.9 R and Lichenbrau, 5.7 PG. This will be a fully rigged shoot with some complicated shots taking about half a day. We would also like to shoot a party climbing Frosted Mug, 5.9 G (5.7 R). This shoot will take a few hours.

KING WALL – We would like to shoot a leader and second climbing Prince (King of Guides), 5.7 G. This will be a fully rigged shoot taking most of a day. We’d prefer to shoot this in fall colors if possible.

PITCHOFF CHIMNEY CLIFF – We would like to photograph a leader and second climbing the second and third pitches of The El, 5.8 G. We have some wild shots planned for this route and it will take most of a day. Better for tortoises than for hares!

HURRICANE CRAG – We would like to photograph a leader and second climbing the chimney pitch of the Old Route, 5.3 G and the second pitch of the New Route, 5.5 G. Time permitting, we’d also like to shoot Spring Equinox, 5.8 G. This will be a fully rigged shoot taking most of a day.

DEADWATER – We would like to shoot a leader and second climbing The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, 5.8 G and Geronimo, 5.8 G. This will be a fully rigged shoot taking about half a day.

POKE-O MOONSHINE MAIN FACE – We would like to photograph two parties (two climbers in each party) climbing simultaneously on Sunburst Arete, 5.8 PG and Paralysis, 5.8 PG. This will be a fully rigged shoot taking most of a day. On a separate day we would like to shoot a leader and second climbing Gamesmanship, 5.8+ G (5.2 R). This will be a fully rigged shoot taking most of a day. At another time we would like to shoot a leader and second climbing FM, 5.7+ R. This will be a fully rigged shoot taking most of a day. Falcon closures may impact scheduling.

Big Air Above Chapel Pass

Big air above Chapel PassMONDAY,  June 16, 2014 – This photo was taken during a photo shoot early last fall. Don Mellor, prominent local climber and guidebook author is shown leading the very exposed top pitch of Overture on the Washbowl Cliff in Chapel Pass. This popular climb is undoubtedly an Adirondack classic.

Don and R.L. were on the first ascent of this pitch of Overture together, and each has climbed it many times since. This pitch of the climb is known for its extreme ‘airiness’ and it is a popular photographic subject as well as a fabulous climb. Although we have published photos of this pitch in the past they never quite met our expectations. For this shoot, we wanted to really emphasize the ‘big air’ feel. The day before the shoot we rigged several ropes so we could rappel into positions that maximized the exposure and the views. After meeting Don and his belayer, Alex, at the base and shooting the first pitch, we scrambled up to the top of the cliff. R.L. dangled out over the edge of a massive overhang while Karen shot a different angle from above. We featured this photo on the spring post card for Alpine Adventures, our instruction and guide service.

We are preparing our shooting plans for the summer and fall and we’ll post details by the end of this week. Are you interested in climbing for our cameras? Contact us for information about when and where we will be photographing, and follow this blog for updates.

Bug Break

SUNDAY,  June 15, 2014 – Since our previous  blog entry (last March!) we have been very busy. A flurry of late season ice climbing was followed immediately by R.L. guiding three weeks of ski mountaineering in the French Alps. The great weather and snow conditions made this a trip to remember. Not that France is ever easy to forget…

Upon returning from Europe in late April, mud season was in full swing so we focused on office tasks. For the past month or so we have spent long hours in front of the computer, sorting and paring down photos for Classic Adirondack Climbs. Although our collection includes photos of all the routes in the book, our recent efforts have yielded much better photos than attempts from years past. As a result, after careful consideration, we have decided to reshoot many of the climbs. This will push our planned publication schedule back a bit but we think it will be worth it. We’ll be posting our summer/fall shooting plans soon and we welcome your participation if you wish to climb for our cameras.

As you probably know, mud season is followed by black fly season in the Adirondacks. On a beautiful, breezy, day in May, rather than remain office-bound, we hiked to the summit of Mt. Van Hoevenburg with our cameras. We were particularly taken with the cloud formations that day, along with the light green color of the newly-opened leaves on the maples, birches and beeches.

Bugs on Mt Van Ho

Black Fly Vista

When the wind abated the bugs were horrific. They especially bothered our dog, Terra, who dug a hole and buried her head in it to keep them at bay! In the photo above, shot in calm conditions, we count 18  black flies visible in the frame. Removing them in post-processing would certainly not tell the story as it was.

Although rock climbing during black fly season, in windy locations, can be enjoyable, photographing climbers at this time of year is a low-odds endeavor. Now that the mud and bugs are mostly gone we are ready to be out shooting climbs and climbers once again.